Throughout
America's Gilded Age, from the late 19th Century through the 1920s,
America's Captains of Industry were erecting larger and larger
palaces in their name. Despite their reputation as American Royalty,
the Rockefellers, Vanderbilts, Wideners, and Drexels were not immune
to the realities of American capitalism. Still, while the Great
Depression rightly earned its place as America's greatest economic
collapse, many of these titans of wealth emerged on the other side
unscathed. As we learned from the recent economic recession, economic
turmoil is measured in collateral damage, not justice.
But
there are some human realities to which even the world's wealthiest
are not immune. I'm speaking, of course, about family.
Two
generations into the Industrial Revolution, America's prominent mad
men were breeding even madder offspring. The Kardashians and Hiltons
of the Gilded Age didn't turn to a public that praised their cash
fueled insanity, these people were an embarrassment. The media, on
the other hand, hasn't changed as much. Always loving a story, the
brats of the 19th and early 20th centuries were a juicy scoop for the
New York Times or the Philadelphia Public Ledger, but
these kids couldn't turn to TLC or MTV to earn their keep selling
their shame. They were unemployable financial burdens.
Plenty
of the descendants of the Industrial Revolution inherited family
corporations, started their own, or proudly joined the service. Some
of these prominent families have so successfully traversed the
complex economics of the 20th Century that they have maintained their
namesake's wealth and influence for a hundred years.
But what
of the others? In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, the
American South was a war torn wasteland of massive unfarmed
plantations sitting on millions of acres of affordable land. Still
recovering from the fallout of the Civil War, the governmental
infrastructure was fractured and poorly taxed. While many of the
North’s successful legacies of the Industrial Revolution built
camps and retreats in the Adirondacks or New Jersey, the more
eccentric were pissing away their inheritances on mansions they
couldn't afford, toiling away as men of leisure or artists who
refused to abandon the life of luxury to which they were
accustom.
The
South provided a solution, and quickly became the flip side to the
Main Line's coin. It became the West Egg for the kids you couldn't take anywhere. Unfortunately, or perhaps interestingly, shipping
off a bunch of spoiled brats to the war torn cotton fields of the
South less than a lifetime removed from the Civil War created one of
the most bizarre cultures in American history that few have bothered
to document.
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Belfair Plantation |
In the
early 1900s, four of the North's more prominent socialites, each as
unproductive as the next, moved to Beaufort County in South Carolina
just north of Savannah. From Philadelphia, Anthony Drexel, Jr.
purchased Callawassie Island. William Moseley Swain, grandson of the
Public Ledger's founder, purchased Belfair Plantation,
demolished and replaced it with his own. Two New Yorkers, Harry Cram
and Roy Rainey, joined them, each purchasing their own plantation in
the region's Low Country.
What
started as a retreat to hunt and waste away the days quickly turned
to a bizarre mix of rum running, voodoo, and maybe even murder.
Anthony Drexel married a local Savannah model, Helen Howard, a
notable character in John Berendt's Midnight in the Garden of Good
and Evil renamed Serena Dawes, the protagonist's eccentric and perhaps
only true friend. Listen closely next time you see the movie, she
introduces her companion, "Harry Cram."
Through
Helen and others, these Northern playboys found themselves immersed
in the Savannah region's own social culture. But you have to
remember, prior to the Civil War, not long before this foursome found
itself in the Low Country, the United States was only vaguely united.
The Civil War was prominently about slavery, but it also consolidated a federal republic. At the time, the South's High Society was as
different from what these boys were accustomed to as that of any
foreign country.
Needless
to say, it got wild. To this day, local folklore in the Low Country
tells tales of the parties on Callawassie Island and at Belfair
Plantation. One in particular tells of a lavish outdoor soiree at
Belfair Plantation where a guest wearing an expensive diamond -
locals swear it was the Hope - was attacked by a goat who proceeded
to eat the necklace. Guests slaughtered the goat to retrieve the
diamond, promptly roasted the animal, and the answer to "What's for dinner?" presented itself.
While
the elite partied with unfettered regard, they didn't go unseen. Rum
running in the region was huge and throughout Prohibition these
parties were anything but dry. Ships would anchor off the coast of
the Low Country, just inside international waters in such numbers
that it looked as though another city sat atop the ocean. Barrels of
rum would be dropped in the sea and retrieved on the shore.
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Belfair Plantation |
The
South struggled for decades with reconstruction, primarily focused on
returning order to its urban centers. Its rural regions, still
largely abandoned, were also largely ignored. What author Baynard
Woods, in his book Coffin Point: The Strange Cases of Ed McTeer,
Witchdoctor Sheriff, referred to as "the North's Nut House"
was allowed to play unchecked.
But
Sheriff Ed McTeer, Beaufort County's youngest sheriff, found an
unusual way to tackle what had become an equally unusual situation:
voodoo. The region's wealthy plantation owners continued to hide
their debauchery behind a thick veil of money that flowed in from
their parents and grandparents in New York and Philadelphia.
Meanwhile, there were forgotten parties that lived amongst their
opulence unseen.
The
South's freed slaves resided in the marshland around these
plantations and lavish estates, a tight and expectedly suspicious
community segregated from Savannah and ignored by the law. McTeer
recognized their presence and knew this community had answers, but he
had no way to get them. Many of the freed slaves practiced a mix of
Native American, Caribbean, and African religions known as hoodoo or
voodoo, and McTeer found his answers by becoming one of them.
Sheriff
McTeer, whether he believed what he practiced or not, found himself a
prominent Witchdoctor rivaling the Low Country's foremost
practitioner of mysticism, Dr. Buzzard, whose wife also makes an
appearance in Midnight as Minerva.
It took
time, but McTeer found a front row seat to the insidious activities
on Callawassie Island and Belfair Plantation. Although many in the
South remain tight lipped about its history, a cohesive series events can
be tethered together in stories that have emerged in whispers.
Considering the bizarre history of the region the more spiritually curious
may wonder, when William Swain's son, Bill was found dead
at the bottom of his staircase at Belfair in 1948, was it the tragic
result of a parlor trick for which he was known, was it the caretaker
who was acquitted, or was something more mystical at play?
To date,
very little of "the North's Nut House” remains. Belfair
Plantation was demolished for a resort community and the region is
prominently known for Hilton Head Island, luxury homes, and golf.
What little that does remain, remains in Savannah. A portrait of the
Public Ledger's founder, William Moseley Swain, hangs in the
main hall of Mercer House, home of Midnight's main character, Jim
Williams.
Perhaps
William's quote from Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil best
summarizes the North's legacy in the Low Country: "There's
only two things that interest me: work, and those trappings of
aristocracy that I find worthwhile. The very things they're forced to
sell when the money runs out. And it always runs out. And then all
they're left with is their lovely manners."
Additional
historical research provided by Michael Gaines.